The traditional process of manufacturing shoes is labour intensive, takes time and careful hand work with more than 200 individual processes required for one finished pair of shoes. All of these processes are carried out by our own master craftsmen using long established shoemaking skills.
Design & product development
This is where we sit down with our clients and look at recent fashion trends. We research the market and match our customers’ requirements to produce a suitable product. After this stage our dedicated and experienced master pattern makers cut the individually designed shapes using traditional methods. All of our patterns are handmade by our highly skilled team.
After choosing a suitable last and producing the design patterns we are able to move on to the next step which is “Clicking”. Soft calf or kid leather is carefully selected from the highest quality hides. The clicker cuts the individual parts of the shoe by hand from the leather piece. These various shaped parts are essential to make the top of the shoe, known as the “upper”.
At our factory we are able to cut these individual parts either by hand or, for larger commissions, using one of our modern hydraulic clicking presses. Once the individual part of the “upper” is cut, our highly trained staff assembles these pieces.
At this stage our skilled staff assemble the “upper” components together. This is called “Closing” Each shoe style requires differing numbers of pieces in order to create a finished “upper”, this determines the timescale of this process.
During closing some of the “upper” components need to be “skived”, an operation which chamfers the thickness of the leather at the edges allowing our craftsmen to match components together neatly and sew them securely. Once the “upper” is assembled, with eyelets if necessary, it’s ready to be lasted.
This process involves a skilled craftsman stretching the closed upper over the hard “last” (a mechanical form that has a shape similar to that of a human foot) to form the required shape.
Once the uppers have taken the required form, the outer sole is attached. There are different types of soles that can be used in this process depending on customer requirements and suitability. We can offer cemented, stitched or moulded types of sole.
Here begins the final process. In the shoe room the shoes are cleaned and polished to expose the natural features and patina of the leather and to highlight the high quality craftsmanship.
At each stage our shoes are inspected for any defects which may need changing. This allows us to continuously improve our products. After the final inspection the shoes are laced, soles and uppers are given one last polish and the completed footwear is wrapped in branded tissue paper and carefully placed into a shoebox.